Cannabis, hemp and CBD in cosmetics?

Belinda Carli, 05/06/2021

What is the difference between hemp, CBD and marijuana?

First, let’s define exactly what is hemp compared to marijuana, and where CBD fits into all of this.

It starts with the plant, Cannabis sativa. It is naturally rich in a variety of cannabinols, chemical substances within the plant. Of these cannabinols, there are two main known ones: tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and cannabidiol (CBD).

Cannabis sativa can be grown as two different plants:

• marijuana – the recreational drug. This plant is distinguished from hemp in that it contains THC (the substance that gets you high). It also contains variable amounts of CBD.
• Hemp – the plant that gets used for a variety of industrial uses, including cosmetics; and where legalised, for medicinal purposes. It is characterised as containing ≤0.3% THC by weight of dry product, with trace amounts of CBD. The actual amount of THC and CBD that may be permitted in hemp oil used in cosmetics varies from this definition however, according to country regulations.

What benefits does hemp oil have in cosmetics?

There is some evidence to show that CBD can have anti-inflammatory benefits for the skin, especially where it contains small inputs of CBD. This translates to a lot of benefits in personal care products from soothing/moisturising products for sensitive skin as well as reducing redness and even anti-ageing/skin smoothing benefits. It has also been shown to control excess sebum secretion and control acne (both through sebum control and anti-inflammatory benefits). Even hemp seed oil without any CBD present is rich in omega fatty acids, with known skin benefits.

This means there is a real opportunity for a range of cosmetic products – and benefits to consumers – if CBD were allowed in personal care products.

What are the current regulatory restrictions on CBD in cosmetics?

Please note this is an area that may be subject to change. As of June, 2021, the current regulatory status of CBD in various countries is:

* Please remember to always check your local country regulations before releasing a product containing CBD into the marketplace as these regulations may change without notice.

Are there any special labelling or marketing restrictions on the use of hemp oil?

This is one part of the regulations that is always very clear. Regardless of whether a product contains CBD or not, or is permitted to or not, the product must comply with cosmetic regulations and not imply medicinal benefits such as being able to treat, mitigate or prevent disease – even skin diseases. Products must not be marketed in a way that would be confusing to a consumer about CBD or THC content and the benefits beyond cosmetic application.

What are some exciting innovations with hemp materials?

Not all of these innovations can be used in all countries – remember to check your local and up to date regulations when using any hemp oil or material that contains CBD. We’ve listed in bold those that do not contain CBD; and underlined those with CBD, to help you navigate the innovations easily.

• Hemp oil without CBD – still contains omega fatty acids with known skin benefits.
• Hemp oil with CBD – anti-inflammatory and sebum regulating benefits
• BioChemica CBD Hemp Butter (Hallstar) – contain a standardised amount of CBD for outstanding anti-inflammatory, skin smoothing and hydrating benefits.
• Hemp Tein Z NPNF (Tri-K) – a hydrolysed hemp seed extract without CBD, with protein benefits for skin and hair
• Lipobeads (Vantage) – encapsulated hemp seed oil for a dazzling visual effect; they have a CBD-free version (Lipobead Bronze) and a version containing CBD (Lipobead Leaf Green with CBD) – to suit all country requirements!
• Lipobelle PinoC (Mibelle Biochemistry) – encapsulated oil and leaf extract containing CBD to improve skin tone, smooth the skin and relax facial tension and wrinkles
• Kannabia Sense (Vyrtus Biotech) – cannabis stem cells without CBD that works with the skin microbiota to promote positive emotions, smooth wrinkles, hydrate the skin and make it glow.

Where are the big opportunities with hemp and CBD in cosmetics?

While there are definite cosmetic/skin benefits from using CBD, there is strong interest in hemp containing products in general. This may be partly because of the consumer appeal of its THC containing counterpart, and interest in medicinal hemp products, but there are still benefits from non-CBD containing hemp oils and proteins.

It is an exciting area for innovation where new cosmetic uses are proven or further established with clinical efficacy; and brands are quick to get to market with any trending innovation. When its as hotly debated as CBD it makes it even more exciting to bring out a product with proof behind its benefits – just make sure you check your local country regulations carefully to make sure you stay up to date and comply.

Watch our latest video on cannabis, hemp, and CBD in cosmetics: 

• Cannabis hemp and CBD in cosmetics 
• Cannabis & hemp anti ageing cream
• How to make Mens Hemp Moisturizer 
• How to make Hemp and Argan hair pomade

Contact us to receive the free formulas: [email protected]

Happy formulating!