Sucragel in cosmetic formulas

Belinda Carli, 21/09/2021

We get a lot of little questions about using sucragel in cosmetic formulas, so we thought we’d create a blog on this topic, to help guide you and give you some answers.

First of all, let me start by saying I absolutely love this material. There are not many materials that are as versatile as sucragel, to create a variety of cosmetic formulas and innovative product forms. This one material can be used to make oily gels, oil-to-water cleansers, blooming bath oils, make up removers, lotions and even creams. You can practically make a whole product range with sucragel in just about every product. It also comes in various forms – there is a version that can be used in organic products as well as one that suits natural formulas and one that is the easiest of all to work with. There are also analogues of this material, that work in a similar way, like micromulse LB (also by Alchemy Ingredients, and part of the Sucragel extended family).

But, like any innovative material, it works differently to your ‘standard’ emulsifiers, polymers and even oils. This means you can’t work with it, or expect it to work, in the same was as more common functional materials you may be more familiar with. It also means you can’t just substitute it for other emulsifiers or cleansing agents in your cosmetic formulas and expect it to work, because it won’t.

One of the first things you need to do is learn how to process it. This is the number one issue I hear from people, and they often give up too early. I will even tell you myself, when I first used this material, the first attempt flopped. Even my second attempt flopped. I called my supplier and told them what was happening, they reiterated the very important mixing instructions, and I tried again. Success! And I’ve never looked back. This is why I created the video How to use and fix sucragel in formulas. In this video I show you how to mix it correctly, and what to do if it goes wrong. It is so crucial you mix it right, otherwise it will not work. But once you master the technique (and allow yourself three chances like I did!) you will never look back. You’ll begin to love it as much as I do.

Why does it need special processing, and what makes this material so unique? It has to do with its chemical structure, and how it works in a formula.

When sucragel creates its ‘form’, it becomes what is known as a ‘high internal phase emulsion’. This means that it contains very large internal droplets, surrounded by a very small amount of continuous phase. It needs to form slowly, with small additions of oil to the sucragel material, so it can create these droplets as more and more of the internal phase gets added. If you add too much of the internal phase too fast, the sucragel does not form its robust external phase, and the product separates.

With sucragel, the slower you add that internal phase, the better, and is the method you see me emphasise so much in my videos.

 

Normal o/w emulsion 

High internal phase emulsion

 

So, get some sucragel and use the formulas I provide in my videos, to create innovative and different cosmetic formulas and product forms that just can’t be created without this amazing material. Just remember, it creates different types of products and forms, so you need to treat it differently to get it to work. Follow the method carefully, take time with each addition, and enjoy your creations.

Happy formulating!  

Videos using sucragel or micromulse:

Remember to contact us for the free formula for all of our videos: [email protected]

 

WANT TO LEARN HOW TO TO GET IT RIGHT?

 

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