The A, B, C, E of cosmetic formulation with vitamins

Vitamins in skincare formulas

Contrary to popular belief, more is not necessarily better when it comes to adding vitamins to skin care and hair care formulas. In fact, too much of certain vitamins may be restricted under regulations to ensure safety for consumers (such as vitamin A); while the wrong formulation environment for others may render them useless in any amount (such as the ascorbic acid form of vitamin C). Stability needs to be checked carefully when formulating with vitamins, learn how here.

Another thing to remember is that even though vitamins are naturally occurring in food sources, most are synthetically manufactured for the personal care industry. This is so that commercial quantities can be created and used in skin care and hair care formulas, where natural sources are not economically or sustainably viable. This is the case for most vitamins, except vitamin C sources. Most other vitamins are identical to that which occurs in nature - but not naturally derived. This means using them in a product you are claiming to be ‘all natural’ is not accurate – so check the sources of the vitamin materials you want to use if claiming all natural is important for your cosmetic formula.

How to formulate with vitamin A

Commonly available as retinol or its derivative retinyl palmitate, it can be hard to stabilise and can cause irritation to some users. It is limited to 1%w/w by the Australian SUSMP and prohibited in the form of tretinoin (retinoic acid and its salts) in the EU. Check your local country regulations carefully before using this vitamin as its use or form may be prohibited!

Vitamin A is widely renowned for its ability to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, rejuvenate the skin and lighten hyperpigmentation, it is most stable when added to formulas held at pH of 6-7. It should be added below 40°C and stability monitored closely over its shelf life.

Read our blog for more tips on how to formulate with vitamin A, or watch this video to learn how to formulate a vitamin A serum. If you are interested in formulating with alternatives to vitamin A, please watch this video.
 

How to formulate with vitamin B

Both niacinamide (vitamin B3) and panthenol (vitamin B5) are relatively stable in cosmetic formulations over a wide pH range, and can tolerate higher temperatures for a short period of time while mixing.

Niacinamide is fantastic to hydrate the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines. In higher quantities (around 5%w/w) it can provide effective skin lightening.

Panthenol also hydrates the skin, reduces redness and has particular benefits for the hair, to improve condition and shine.
Less common forms of vitamin B available for skincare formulation include vitamin B6, B7 and B9 – information on their inputs can be seen in the summary table below.  

For more details on the full range of B vitamins, and how to formulate with B vitamins, please watch this video.
 

How to formulate with vitamin C

Vitamin C is arguably one of the best known vitamins, and comes in a variety of forms. One of the most commonly known forms is ascorbic acid – however this is the worst type to use in cosmetic formulations because it rapidly degrades, causing discolouration and pH changes to the formulation along with little benefit to the skin.

More stable forms of vitamin C include ascorbyl phosphates when stabilised around pH 6-7; although careful stability monitoring is also essential over time to track any undesirable changes that may be occurring, or depleted performance.

At lower inputs, vitamin C can be moisturising for the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines. In higher quantities it can lighten the skin by inhibiting tyrosinase. Careful of thinking more is better when formulating with vitamin C: if the formula turns yellow or brown over time, then the vitamin C has degraded so no matter how much was added at the time of manufacture, very little (if any) would remain to provide skin benefits once this discolouration occurs.

For more information on how to formulate with vitamin C, including the best forms for the most stable vitamin C formulas, watch this video.

How to formulate with vitamin E

Vitamin E actually has a few different forms: particular tocopherols, mixed tocopherols and tocopheryl acetate. While all forms of vitamin E will provide antioxidant benefits to the skin, only the tocopherol form provides antioxidant protection to a cosmetic formula.

Careful again – too much can have a pro-oxidant effect, so you need to run stability to check the amount you use is suitable for the cosmetic formulation created. Make sure it is added below 40°C – unless essential in a hot fill product such as a balm – for best results.

For more information on how to test the right input of vitamin E for your formulas, please watch this video. For details on the pro-oxidant effect of vitamin E in cosmetic formulas, read this blog.  

Summary table of vitamins in skincare

Here is a summary table to help you get formulating with vitamins in your next skin and hair care projects. Please refer to supplier data sheets for specific information relevant to the materials you are using to ensure best performance and stability results.