Cosmetics to combat lack of sleep: the sleep-skin connection

Why does the skin need sleep?

When we sleep, our body can repair, and so does the skin. The body and skin also need sleep to grow and renew, an important part of desquamation and skin cell renewal for our skin to look at its best.  
Studies have shown:

• A lack of sleep can reduce skin suppleness, skin cell turnover, elasticity of the skin and lead to an increase in wrinkles¹.
• Skin hydration was also impacted, decreasing as sleeplessness nights increase¹.
• An increase in dark under-eye circles and visible skin-ageing markers².
• Reduced skin barrier and recovery after UV light exposure².
• A more negative perception of appearance².

Consumers will often also comment that their skin has reduced suppleness, a more uneven complexion, redness (as well as dark circles) around the eyes, and even drooping eyelids and the mouth. Not only do people feel grumpier with less sleep, but their face also tends to show it.
 

What is the circadian rhythm?

The circadian rhythm is the body’s internal clock that helps regulate bodily functions. When functioning properly, it helps to make us feel sleepy when it is nighttime and awake during daylight hours. The skin is impacted by the circadian rhythm – so anything that impacts sleep, impacts this internal body clock and its functioning.

Making sure you have a regular sleep pattern including not staying up late can be one way to restore a balanced circadian rhythm, but if sleep disturbances are ongoing, then your skin will need cosmetic support to counter some of the detrimental impacts of the internal body-clock disruptions.
 

How can cosmetics help combat disrupted sleep?

Cosmetic actives can support improved sleep quality through olfactory (aromatherapy/inhaled pathways) as well as topical influences on melatonin and protein synthesis. Most actives targeted at supporting poor sleep work by stabilising or improving the natural circadian rhythm, which helps the skin cells to repair UV and daily damage, detoxify the cells, boost cellular renewal, collagen and elastin synthesis and redensify the epiderms. All of these things are impacted by negative sleep habits; the active ingredients effectively combat these issues to reduce dark eye-circles and signs of ageing.

What cosmetic actives have clinical benefits for sleep affected skin?

New cosmetic actives for sleep-disrupted skin are being launched all the time. Some of the key actives available at the moment include the following…

Circalys (Greentech): uses a traditional Ayurvedic detoxifying plant, green chiretta (Andrographis paniculata). This plant is rich in andrographolide, shown in vitro to support cellular autophagy and reduce cellular stress. Ex vivo, it has been shown to boost melatonin receptor expression and antioxidant defenses. It has also been shown to increase levels of oxytocin, endocannabinoid and endorphins – all feel good hormones – within the skin. In vivo results were even more promising:

• reduction in eye bags, dark circles and under-eye wrinkles;
• improvements to skin radiance, smoothness and overall appearance;
• less fine lines and wrinkles and a feeling of rested, more comfortable skin.

Circanblue (Provital): uses postbiotic technology to rebalance the skin’s circadian rhythm after exposure to blue light. It has been shown to increase melatonin production for detoxifying and skin repair benefits whilst inducing circadian repair to skin cells. It is particularly beneficial for those impacted by a lot of screen time, with its antiaging and renewal processes proven under digital exposure.  

Immunight (Lucas Meyer): an extract from lavandin (Lavandula hybrida) this clever active works through topical application as well as olfactory pathways. It has a melatonin-like effect to support the circadian rhythm, with particular benefits to the immune functions of the skin, to reduce signs of inflammation and inflam’aging. Clinical trials showed:

• a reduction in skin redness, dark under-eye circles and overall signs of fatigue.
• improvements to sleep duration and reduction in night-awakenings.

Nightessense biofunctional (Ashland): made from pristine sources of Lavandula angustifolia using their patented plant small RNA technology, this active has been shown to:

• In vitro:
  • boost the skin’s natural beneficial night time proteins to support cellular repair, detox and renewal.
  • shown to be particularly beneficial to anti-oxidant markers essential to repair and protect the skin from daily pollution and UV damage.
  • promote the hair anagen phase to support follicular hair growth.
• In vivo:
  • reduce dark circle volume and colour.
  • More supple and renewed looking skin.

Regenight (Lucas Meyer): an upcycled extract obtained from tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia) it too works through topical and olfactory application. When inhaled, it helps improve the quality of sleep, while when applied, it boosts melatonin production in the skin. In vitro results showed improvements to skin barrier function and antioxidant activity, whilst in vivo results proved:

• improvements to sleep quality as well as quantity.
• improved skin hydration, firmness, smoothness and elasticity.
• reduced appearance of skin fatigue and dark under-eye circles. 

Both Nightessence biofunctional and Regenight showed beneficial results as quickly as from the very first night!

What issues are associated with developing sleep restoring skincare?

The biggest issues cosmetic brands face when developing sleep restoring skincare is in the marketing story they are permitted to communicate to consumers. Cosmetic products, by definition, are for improving the appearance of the skin, and are prohibited from making physiological or cellular activity claims. This means it is very hard to explain to a consumer just how these cosmetic actives work, and how their skincare products are able to provide specific sleep-based benefits.

Cosmetic brands using these actives are therefore best to promote the visible benefits resulting from the use of these cosmetic ingredients, and attach this to claims such as, ‘awake to a fresher, more revived appearance’; or ‘reveal younger looking skin overnight.’ Remember to hold appropriate evidence and use cosmetic actives appropriately to support such claims, and keep them appearance based about a renewed and revitalised appearance, or to repair visile damage from daily dehydration, UV or pollution.

Sleep restoring skincare an essential part of any anti-ageing skincare range

Consumers don’t need convincing that the key to great skin and a more youthful, revitalised appearance is a good night’s rest. Speak with your suppliers or visit your local exhibitions to see the latest launches in sleep supporting cosmetic ingredients to make them a part of your next developments.

Happy formulating!

1. Jang SI, Lee M, Han J, Kim J, Kim AR, An JS, Park JO, Kim BJ, Kim E. A study of skin characteristics with long-term sleep restriction in Korean women in their 40s. Skin Res Technol. 2020 Mar;26(2):193-199. doi: 10.1111/srt.12797. Epub 2019 Nov 6. PMID: 31692145.
2. Oyetakin-White P, Suggs A, Koo B, Matsui MS, Yarosh D, Cooper KD, Baron ED. Does poor sleep quality affect skin ageing? Clin Exp Dermatol. 2015 Jan;40(1):17-22. doi: 10.1111/ced.12455. Epub 2014 Sep 30. PMID: 25266053.