How are cosmetic claims proven?

Evaporimetry (TEWAmeter).

Evaporimetry is used to measure the moisturising effect of a cosmetic product. It uses a probe with moisture detectors, that when placed against the skin’s surface, measures the difference in the moisture content between the two detectors, and thereby gives a measure of TEWL.  

The TEWL of the skin is measured before and after cosmetic product is applied, indicating the content of moisture within the skin before and after the application of a moisturiser.

This type of testing can prove claims such as:

• resists moisture losses by up to x% within x minutes
• protects moisture levels within the skin for up to x hours
• improves long  term moisture protection/skin barrier protection by X times within 2/4 weeks

Watch how to make a triple-action hydrating lotion here. 
 

Flexometry (cutometer).

The cutometer is used to measure the elasticity of the stratum corneum. It uses a suction probe applied to the skin, which then pulls the skin and relaxes it, measuring the level of deformation that occurs, as well as the time taken for the skin to return to normal.

Measurements of the skin’s response are taken before and after cosmetic product is applied. Since moisturisers’ increase the elasticity response of the skin, readings taken after the application of a cosmetic product measure how much elasticity of the skin has increased by (that is, how much further it can deform and how much quicker it returns to normal).

This type of testing can prove claims such as:

• increases the firmness/tone of the skin by up to xx% in 4 weeks
• boosts elasticity of the skin by up to xx% in 4 weeks
• improves skin tone/firmness/elasticity by X times within 4 weeks
   

Skin hydration (corneometer).

Hydrated skin reflects a well-functioning skin barrier. Only an intact NMF (natural moisturizing factor) provides an effective scavenging function against radicals and nitrogen oxides penetrating from the outside, and consequently protects the skin against premature skin aging. 

A corneometer measures the moisture retention capacity of the skin based on the dielectric constant of the water in the superficial layers of the stratum corneum up to 10-20 µm.

This type of testing can prove claims such as:

• increases skin hydration by up to x% within x minutes
• boosts hydration of the skin by x% over 8/24 hours
• improves long-term hydration by X times within 2/4 weeks

Watch how to make a hydrating barrier cream here. 
 

Measuring sebum content of skin (sebumeter).

A sebumeter measures the sebum/oil content on the surface of the skin. The measurement is taken with a parchment like foil which becomes transparent after contact with lipid substances. 

The foil is pressed on the skin for a few seconds, and the change in transparency is measured with the help of a source of light (photometric method), making it insensitive to humidity.

This type of testing can prove claims such as:

• reduces sebum on the skin by up to x% within x days
• helps balance sebum content of the skin for up to x hours
• reduces sebum on the skin by X times within 2/4 weeks

Watch how to make an anti-acne serum with salicylic acid here. 
 

Measuring skin tone (mexameter). 

A mexameter is used to measure melanin and/or redness of skin. A tool is placed on to the skin and measures the melanin and erythema of the skin, based on a source of light with three specific wavelengths whose radiation is absorbed by the skin and diffusely reflected. 

The measuring probe is used to quantify the skin redness (erythema) and determine the degree of skin tanning (melanin) or whiteness. The probe can also measure the irritant effects of cosmetic formulas as well as soothing effects of active ingredients.

This type of testing can prove claims such as:

• whitening:
  • whitens the appearance of the skin by up to x% within 4/6 weeks
  • provides x times the whitening effect of nearest competitor
  • clinically proven to whiten the skin without causing irritation
• tanning:
  • provides up to x times the tanning effect or your normal skin tone within x hours
  • clinically proven to tan the skin without causing irritation
• redness:
  • helps reduce the appearance of redness by up to x% within x minutes/hours
  • clinically proven to reduce the appearance of redness after waxing/laser treatments
• additional claims:
  • clinically tested to be non-irritant/suitable for sensitive skin (all product types)

Watch how to make a fast-acting skin whitening cream here.

Watch how to create a self-tanning lotion here.
 

Measuring wrinkle depth (skin visiometer)

The skin visiometer is a device with a parallel light source and a black and white CMOS-camera with 640 * 480 pixels. 

A skin replica is taken by applying a thin sheet of specialized silicone on the skin, and then removing. This provides a replica of the contours of the skin, which is then placed between the light source and a camera. The light absorption of the blue color is known. When the light penetrates the replica, it is absorbed according to the thickness of the silicone material. 

The replica reproduces the heights and depths of the skin as a negative, i.e. wrinkles are higher in the replica as the silicone is thicker in this place.

This type of testing can prove claims such as:

• helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles/fine lines by up to x% within x days
• improves the appearance of fine lines/wrinkles X times within 2/4 weeks

Watch how to make a freeze instant anti-wrinkle serum here. 

WHICH EQUIPMENT TO USE?

Here is a table summarizing the equipment we’ve just looked at.

So now you have a concise summary of how cosmetic products can prove their claims of efficacy. Learn to conduct your own testing with our Diploma of Cosmetic Brand Management, and maximise the claims you make with your next cosmetic formulation developments.

Happy formulating!

Do you want to create your own cosmetic brand or cosmetic line? Or maybe you have been selling on a small scale at the markets, to family and friends and now want to take the next steps?

You can have the best product in the world, it is not going to be successful if your consumers are not aware of it!

The Cosmetic Brand Essentials workshop provides an overview of what you need to think of when planning your personal care products and business! It also provides you with a FREE ebook, FREE Business Plan template, pricing strategy and all the things you need to think of PLUS industry guidance on what is normal and necessary for the personal care industry.

These workshops are included in our Diploma of Cosmetic Brand Management. Study these workshops with us and get $195AUD OFF your study fees if you enrol in our Diploma of Cosmetic Brand Management later!

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