How to create natural pearlescent shampoo formulas

Natural pearlescent shampoo formula step 1: Thicken effectively

It can be difficult to thicken natural foaming formulas, but it is twice as important when you want to create a natural pearlescent shampoo formula. This is because your pearlescent material is a particle (more on this in the next step), so it needs to be suspended homogenously throughout the shelf life of the foaming formula. 

You do need to be careful when thickening your natural foaming formula, however, as many natural gums can make the final formula a bit glumpy, rather than free flowing. 

While a guar gum can be nice and mild on the skin and hair, it usually does not have enough stabilising power to suspend the pearlescent particles. Same with the carrageenans. Sclerotium gum can help stabilise particles, but full viscosity benefits are not often realized until the next day, so unless you are able to give the product another stir to ensure it is homogenous the next day, you may find some particles will sink to the bottom or float to the top. A good quality xanthan gum is ideal: using a cheap grade of xanthan gum can make the finished formula look hazy and glumpy, while a higher quality xanthan gum can enable good suspension and flow. You would often need around 1.0%w/w of a good quality xanthan to get the desired results and shelf life. 

Start with the right materials and natural shampoo formulas, watch:

• Easy natural surfactant formula
• Natural gums to stabilise particles

And read this blog to create your natural foaming formula base the right way. 

Natural pearlescent shampoo formula step 2: Use titanium coated mica particles

While not chemically totally natural, titanium coated mica particles are accepted by natural and organic certifiers as naturally derived substances. These particles are available in a range of sizes and colours, so you can create a variety of pearlescent, even coloured effects! If you want a traditional pearlescent appearance, however, you should select a silver metallic pigment. While these look very shiny as a raw material, in a foaming formula, they impart a beautiful pearlescent effect. 

The amount of titanium coated mica you use in the formula will impact the end visual effect. You will normally need to use around 1.5%w/w of a pigment to get the desired effect.

Watch this video to see how to formulate a natural pearlescent shampoo.

Natural pearlescent shampoo formula step 3: Use superfatting agent to ensure luxury

Consumers who are looking for a luxury body wash or shampoo formula are usually willing to pay slightly more for it. The pearlescent effect implies that a foaming formula is more luxury than regular non-pearly products, so your finished product should have a luxurious after skin feel. 

Superfatting agents are a particular type of surfactant. They are partially hydrophilic (partially water loving) lipids. They are composed of a water loving portion and an oil loving portion, making them ideal to use in wash off products. Normal lipids added to cleansing/foaming products reduce stability, foam and cleansing power; but superfatting agents, because they are partially hydrophilic (partially water loving) do not negatively impact stability, foaming or cleansing ability. They provide some emolliency and skin or hair conditioning benefits, but are largely washed off so there is no greasy residue. They are therefore most suited to wash off products.

Remember if you are formulating an all natural/naturally derived foaming formula, you will need to use naturally derived superfatting agents - not PEG materials. 

Materials such as sucrose cocoate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, glyceryl oleate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisotearate are commonly used to provide a luxuriously soft, superfatting feel to foaming formulas without impacting foam or cleansing performance at 3.0 - 5.0%w/w.
 

Remember: method is crucial!

When formulating with natural surfactants, it is essential that you add your gums in the correct order, so that it gels with the total content of surfactant and water present. This is twice as important when you need to stabilise particles! 

You should be combining your essential oils, antioxidant and preservative with your superfatting agent first, then adding this to your surfactants and stirring under low shear. Then add this to your water and stir slowly to avoid introducing air but ensure homogenous blending. 

Your slurried gum should then be added and stirred through slowly to avoid clumps and even hydration. This ensures the gum is exposed to all available water at the end, for the best results. Your particles can then be added and stirred through under low shear. You may need to allow your mixture to settle overnight before pouring off. 
 

Happy formulating!