How to formulate self-tanning products

What is DHA?

DHA is naturally derived from sugar beets or sugar cane, making it a natural tanning ingredient. It works by reacting with the amino acids in the outer layers of skin cells to form melanoidins, which give you a tanned appearance. The actual reaction is called the Maillard reaction, and is similar to the process by which bread turns golden. Already we can highlight two key issues when using this ingredient in cosmetic formulas:

• Since DHA reacts with amino acids in the skin, you need to keep any sort of protein, collagen, amino acids and even peptides out of your formula. Even a tiny addition of protein or nitrogen containing substance, for that matter, will mean the DHA starts reacting IN the bottle, leaving less available to react with, and tan the skin.
• We all love the smell of baking bread, right? Well, the Maillard reaction is responsible for that enticing aroma. But on the skin – well, use any DHA containing product without fragrance added, and you’ll soon realise that we don’t smell anywhere near as good as a bakery. In fact, the odour associated with self-tanning products is usually one that needs to be covered effectively by suitable fragrances or essential oils.

Here are the first two issues with self-tanning formulas: overcome the aroma and avoid all proteins and nitrogen containing ingredients. Check your preservatives carefully to make sure they do not contain any nitrogen compounds, and make sure your fragrance or essential oil blend has significant substantivity to cover the residual smell.
 

Handling DHA: storage, processing and pH

There are several things you’ll need to remember, to store and use DHA effectively. Here is a compact list:

• DHA needs constant refrigeration. If you are sourcing your DHA from a reputable supplier, they will usually organize refrigerated shipping for you, at extra cost of course. Expect shipping to be more expensive than for other cosmetic raw materials for this reason, and make sure you have plenty of refrigerated storage space when it arrives.
• When preparing samples and production batches, keep DHA in the fridge until needed.
• It should therefore go without saying that DHA should be added to formulas when they are as cool as possible (adding at 25°C or less is fine). DHA is readily water soluble, so adding it at the final stages of emulsion processing is not an issue, just stir thoroughly after addition to make sure its crystals are fully dissolved before packing off your product.
• Check the pH of your tanning formula before you add it. DHA is very pH sensitive; outside of the very tight range of pH 4 - 6, it will quickly degrade, and your tanning formula simply won’t work. Check and adjust the pH of your formula to just below 6, then add your DHA, then check and adjust again if necessary. Keep it just below 6 at the time of manufacture, because DHA will cause the pH of your formula to drop over time, and remember, once it gets to 4, the DHA simply won’t work anymore and you could have other issues with your formula at such a low pH.
• Make sure all ingredients in your formula are compatible with DHA. Significant incompatibilities (besides proteins and nitrogen) include charged ingredients, e.g. anionic emulsifiers and ionic gums, oxidizing materials, preservatives with nitrogen or oxygen in their structure and iron oxides. You’ll need to make sure all of your ingredients are also compatible within the pH range of 4-6, especially your chosen preservative.  
• Avoid using any alkalizing agents with DHA – if the pH is too low to begin with, you’ll need to use different ingredients.

You can use our free formulas (video links provided below), use our Create Cosmetic Formulas program to check and make sure your self-tanning formula will be stable, or learn how to formulate self-tanning products professionally to make sure your tanning formulas will always achieve the results you have been hoping for, and check and monitor the product shelf life.
 

Are there alternatives to DHA in tanning formulas?

We’ve talked a lot about DHA in cosmetic formulas because it provides the fastest, deepest tan and is the most economical choice. You do need to counter some of the ‘orange’ tones that can develop with DHA, using bronzers or other tanning agents, or use another material altogether. Here are a few alternatives to DHA in tanning formulas:

• Erythrulose provides a more natural-looking tan compared to DHA, but still reacts with proteins and amino acids in formulas. It costs more, can feel a little sticky on application, and you won’t get as much colour development as when using DHA. The tan needs 24 hours to develop a decent amount of colour, but will continue to deepen until 48 hours. It has less of the undesirable tanning aroma and is less likely to cause a streaked appearance. A small amount can be used in conjunction with DHA to boost a more natural appearance and reduce streaking. On it’s own, its better suited to ‘glow’ products rather than trying to get a really bold tanning result. 
• Pre-tan accelerators can help enhance the amount of colour that develops on sun exposure, meaning consumers can often get a healthy glow from very little time outdoors. Check regulations carefully to see if your chosen ingredients are permitted in cosmetics in your region, and consider carefully how you will market the product, since most Government health campaigns promote limited sun exposure, you should not be promoting a product encouraging prolonged sun exposure.
• Peptides that stimulate melanin production are a relatively new cosmetic ingredient innovation. These can have varied results but present another option for the self-tanning product market. Check the actives you intend to use to ensure they are permitted in your region and make sure your marketing claims do not talk about the physiological changes in the skin, but instead, the visible tanning results.
   

Getting an instant tanning result while the tanning agent develops

Depending on how much DHA you have used in your formula, and assuming you have ensured a compatible formulation has been created, significant colour should develop on the skin within 8 hours. The full tan will continue to develop up to 24 hours, after which it will start to deteriorate until all the skin cells that have been tanned slough off, typically over 5 – 7 days.

But what about the products providing instant tanning results?

Instant tanning products, where they contain DHA, use FD&C colourants to stain the very outer layers of the epidermis, while the tanning active takes time to develop. The ‘stained’ skin cells will slough off naturally over 1-2 days, but by then, the DHA (or other tanning agent) will have created the desired tanning result. Using FD&C colourants can also lessen the initial orange that can occur with DHA, by off-setting it with more olive skin tones – just be careful, as the wrong FD&C colourants in your formula can make it quite green over time!

A great self-tanning product takes more than just a great self-tanning formula

Good skin care is essential to make sure users get the best results from your tanning formulas. This is why you will commonly see self-tanning brands offer exfoliants, to ensure the freshest, smoothest skin cells are exposed to their chosen tanning agent, as well as deeply moisturizing body creams, butters and even oils. Often promoted as tanning extenders, they may contain small amounts of DHA to prolong an even tan or glow, but most importantly, tend to contain a lot of oils and humectants to condition the skin cells and reduce excessive flaking and a horrible lizard-like appearance as the tanned skin cells shed off normally.

The actual self-tanning formula should also spread extremely well, to avoid any streaks during application. Having a bronzer colourant present is one way to help your consumers ‘see’ where they are applying product to help reduce the risk of streaking.

If you are planning to have a self-tanning product in your range, then make sure you plan to have at least one exfoliant and one deeply moisturizing skincare product as well – they are essential to ensure consumer satisfaction from your self-tanning formula.
 

Learn to formulate tanning products

Watch FREE:

• how to create a natural instant bronzing lotion with carob and cocoa here
• how to create a self-tanning lotion formula here

Want to create your own self-tanning formulas FAST? Formulate self-tanning products without needing to learn using the Create Cosmetic Formulas program. Get making your own self-tanning formulas, as well as a variety of body exfoliants and moisturisers straight away – without needing to learn – because the program won’t let you make mistakes!  Just €64 / US$74 / AU$99 gets you started today - find out more and subscribe here.

Learn how to create all types of professional self-tanning formulas, including spray tans, mousses, lotions, creams, gels and the bronzers needed for instant tans, using a variety of actives and bronzing agents, plus learn how to formulate the exfoliants and skin conditioning products of your choosing by studying one of the following Industry recognized programs:

• Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science to formulate for your own brand in as little as 9-15 weeks, or
• Diploma of Personal Care Formulation to become a qualified Cosmetic Chemist, whether it be for your brand or your career, and learn the most comprehensive approach for all types of cosmetic formulations.

Happy formulating!