Secrets of a Cosmetic Chemist: creating cosmetic formulas with workhorse actives

How to launch great cosmetic formulas fast

Cosmetic Chemists will often need to create multiple revisions of a cosmetic formula before they send it to their marketing department or concept developer for sign off, watch the process here. To shorten the time taken and hasten the formulation development process, larger cosmetic brands will usually have a rigorously tested base product to which they add trending actives, rather than start from scratch each time. Learn the concepts of fast formulation bases with this webinar.

These base products are known as ‘fast formulations’ and enable cosmetic brands to launch what appear to be entirely new products in as little as 3 months.

For example, they will usually have a moisturiser for oily skin types, minus the trending active, already prepared and stability tested. This base product would use all required ingredients to ensure stability and suitability for the desired skin type (in this case, oily skin), and also be formulated with non-reactive and highly compatible ingredients, to accommodate just about any type of new/trending active to be added without impacting the base stability.

Large cosmetic brands will have similar base formulas to suit a variety of skin types, or even hair types, as well as appropriate cleansers and serums. This means that any trending cosmetic ingredients or actives can be added to their formulas with minimal testing required – and they can launch their new formula in around 3 months from the concept stage.

Get tips on how to create fast formulation bases with these videos:

• Fast formulations 1: Emulsions
• Fast formulations 2: Surfactants

How to ensure success of your base formulas: the workhorse active

Now, here is the real secret to brand leading fast formulations: the base product already contains an active that always gets used, even though a newly trending active ingredient is added as well.

A workhorse active ingredient is one that is not widely promoted but has proven performance. For example, your fast formulation base moisturiser for mature skin may have a collagen boosting algae extract in it that you don’t promote heavily in your marketing – yet it is there, doing its job in the background, every time you use that fast formulation base for future launches. Your company would also have conducted performance testing using this fast formulation base with workhorse active, so they have a known and high performing base to start future developments with.

This base is what gets updated with each trend, for example, it may be updated with the addition of a botox alternative this year, or a natural vitamin A replacement next year, and whatever is trending the following year. In other words, you have at least 2 actives in your formula to ensure fantastic results, but only one of those actives is new each time – and only that active is widely promoted as your launch product story. This helps protect your workhorse active secret from other companies matching your products’ performance, whilst ensuring your newly launched product always delivers on its promises.

See an example of a workhorse active in a cosmetic formula with this video: Fast formulations with actives – anti-acne serum
 

Additional tips to get the best performance from your fast formulation base

There are some functional ingredients that make great additions to your fast formulation bases – use these where suitable to add that something extra to please your consumer:

• Humectants: the unsung hero of a cosmetic formula, these can boost moisture protection and suppleness without greasiness. They can also be chosen to soften the wash off feel of surfactants and even boost foam!
• Natural oils or esters: choose materials that can add to your product story as well as nurture the skin and hair as required.
• Barrier protective emulsifiers: choose emulsifiers with efficacy data to show moisture protective properties for even greater hydration and skin soothing results.

See additional tips on how to fast track the formulation development process, read this blog.

Watch an overview of the stability testing process in this video. See how cosmetic products are tested for performance – watch this video.

Happy formulating!